Ruger No. 1 Installation Documentation
Tool List (Figure 1):
- Brake Cleaner (or your choice of degreaser)
- Gun oil/lubricant
- Philips head screwdriver
- Punch (1/8" or smaller)
- 7/16" Socket and wrench with extension(s) (or long flathead screwdriver for older models)
- 1/16" Allen wrench
- Thread locker
Included in trigger kit:
- Sear Screw
- Overtravel Screw
- Safety Screw
- Return Spring
- Roll Pin
*Note: There are two trigger returns included in the kit. The spring needed depends on the rifle. Old Rugers No. 1s have a shallower spring pocket requiring a shorter spring, while new models are deeper and require the longer spring.
1. Check to ensure gun is unloaded.
2. Apply oil/lubricant to tip of phillips head screwdriver (Figure 2). This ensures that the rubber butt pad doesn't grab the screw driver shaft while removing the screws.
3. With lubricated screw driver, remove butt pad screws and butt pad (Figure 3).
4. With 7/16" Socket and wrench with extension(s) (or long flathead screw driver) remove stock bolt and stock (Figure 4).
5. With hammer and punch 1/8 (or smaller), drive out the two roll pins securing the trigger guard (Figure 7 A&B, Figure 8) and remove trigger guard.
6. Drive out the trigger pivot pin (Figure 7C).
7. Remove safety detent spring (Figure 9B), and safety detent pin (Figure 9A).
*Safety detent pin should remove easily once the tension from the safety dentent spring is relieved.
8. Drive out safety bar pivot pin (Figure 9C) and remove safety bar (Figure 10).
*This pin can be difficult to remove. We recommend placing the 7/16" socket used to remove the stock underneath the pin to support the material around the pin while driving it out.
9. Drive out sear pivot pin (Figure 11A) and remove trigger and sear.
10. Before installing, remove the screws from the Jard trigger (Figure 13A-D). Clean them with degreaser and apply the thread locker. Screw all the screws back into the Jard trigger except the spring adjust screw (Figure 13C).
*Note that the sear engagement screw (Figure 13A), while facing forward, must be threaded in with a 1/16" Allen wrench from the backside of the trigger.
*The Jard trigger replaces the factory trigger, transfer bar, and sear. It pivots off the factory sear pivot point. (No pin will be in the factory trigger pivot point when finished.)
11. Slide the trigger and trigger guard into position simultaneously. Push in the trigger pivot pin (Figure 15) and trigger guard pins (Figure 17).
12. Insert the trigger return spring followed by the spring adjust screw.
*This screw may be adjusted slightly in or out to either stiffen or lighten trigger pull. If the desired pull weight cannot be achieved, other weight springs are available.
13. Position safety bar and insert safety bar pivot pin to secure it (Figure 16).
14. Position safety detent spring and insert safety detent pin to secure it (Figure 18).
15. Turn in the sear engagement screw clockwise until the hammer drops, then back off the screw until a safe amount of sear engagement is present (Approximately ¾ turn counterclockwise) (Figure 19).
16. Adjust the over travel screw so it stops the trigger with only slight travel after hammer release (Figure 20).
17. Adjust the safety screw so it engages the tang safety when the selector is on safe position and the action is cocked.
19. Reinstall the stock with 7/16" socket and wrench (Figure 21).
20. Reapply lubricant to phillips head screwdriver (Figure 22)
21. Position butt pad and turn in screws to secure it (Figure 23).
22. Perform safety and function checks.
23. Allow the thread locker to dry 24 hours before using the rifle.